The size inclusivity problem in thrift stores

Walking into a thrift store to browse the many rows of preloved clothing is an exciting experience as you never know what trendy top or pair of jeans you’re going to stumble upon. But as a plus-size woman, rummaging through second-hand garments only to be disappointed that they don’t have your size in any of the clothing can be an unpleasant experience for many.

Although thrift shopping has made its way into the climate-conscious zeitgeist and poses as a viable solution to our ever-growing fast fashion conundrum, these shops do not come without their problems. Their lack of size inclusivity is especially a big one as it hinders a plus-size shopper’s ability to shop sustainably.

Charlotte Beever, 19, a University of Sheffield student who identifies as a plus-sized woman says: “Going repeatedly on a trial-and-error bias to a vintage store and not finding anything is so common for us now. It just gets to the point where it's not worth the visit because you already know there's going to be nothing that will fit you."

She also adds, as a woman who is a size 16 to 18, she finds it quite difficult to find plus-size clothing in thrift stores and has limited options.

“Additionally, leaving a store empty handed seconds after you’ve walked in fully intending to treat yourself does not put people like me in the best mindset as a lot of us have had certain eating disorders in the past.

Not seeing size-inclusive clothing at thrift stores makes us feel like outliers as it negates us from the equation and spreads the notion that only people of limited sizes get to be sustainable. We don't really want to feel like that when all we’re trying to do is shop and be good to the environment,” she says.

Charlotte also adds that while a majority of people have a plethora of clothing options to choose from at vintage stores and their biggest concerns might be whether a top looks cute or suits them, her biggest concern is, “will it fit me?”. She doesn’t get the privilege to jump on a trend but rather must settle for a clothing item that fits her body type. Often, she turns to the men’s section to find clothing which fits her.

“When I was younger, I felt a bit awkward about going to the men’s section to shop for myself. I remember acting like I had to buy something for my boyfriend or father but as you get older you have to embrace it” says Charlotte.

However, nowadays she does not find perusing clothes in the men’s section to be a negative experience as fashion has become fluid, there is no pressure to shop in only one section and she tends to find more size consistency in menswear.

That brings us to another issue that comes with the territory of thrift shopping. As a plus-sized shopper, Charlotte has also noticed an inconsistency in women’s clothing sizes and the lack of fitting rooms in thrift stores.

“Even when I do find my size, I can't commit to buying clothing without trying it on because it's expensive and I just know it won’t fit me because of the dearth of size inclusivity,” she says.

However, she is a big advocate for charity shops and says she’s always found something she adores whenever she walks into one. One of the few things done better in charity shops than at thrift and vintage stores is the placement of clothing. While neither has a plus-size section, charity stores often have clothing lined up from largest to smallest which makes it easier for plus-size shoppers to find clothing in their size. In thrift stores, however, clothing is usually just thrown together on the racks and only sorted based on the type of apparel like t-shirts, jackets and trousers.

“I could be in love with something but then see that it’s a size six at a thrift store. I’m not saying there should be a plus-size section, but clothes should at least be organised in a way that you don’t have to look through everything to find something your size. If charity shops manage to put things in order according to size, I’m sure thrift stores can too”, says Charlotte.

Most thrift stores also tend to pick and choose what to sell to remain on-brand however, charity shops work based on donations from people and don’t tend to handpick items they’d like to sell as long as it’s in a wearable condition.

Charlotte has also noticed another trend and a potential reason why thrift stores and charity shops don’t often have plus size clothing. “For us, to buy something in a size that fits and a style we like, means we’re less likely to donate it again or give it up because it's not exactly a revolving trend for us.

“Especially people who were plus size who have lost weight now may still keep their old clothes in the back of the wardrobe because it’s comfort clothing and it’ll be there for you no matter what size you are. So, people are less likely to donate it,” she says.

Charlotte has also noticed, many brands that get donated to second-hand stores have their size ranges capped at 16. This is a top-down look at the industry as brands at the top of the fashion cycle tend to not have size inclusive ranges, so how can thrift stores with recycled clothes do the same?

Here are just a few additional words of advice from Charlotte: “Baggy clothes are currently on trend and I love them as much as the next person. Although all clothes are fair game, you need to ask yourself whether you really need something in a larger size. For you it may be a fashion trend that will probably die out and go back to a thrift store whereas for plus size people that same item of clothing may be cherished for quite a while because it’s the only thing we're comfortable in.”

Edited by Maddy Burgess