Copenhagen has made an undeniable entrance into the fashion landscape since its inauguration in 2006, making its existence less than half of London's. Already the Danish city has become known for bringing quirky and conceptual shows back to fashion week; making them into performance pieces to be pondered over. They do not aim to speak on the garments solely; the shows are notably nods to pockets of society, widespread concerns and oddities alike that pivot Copenhagen into a realised fashion hub.
The Scandinavian capital’s fashion scene has proved that it is the essential space for elevated streetwear as well as mindful notions about topics such as environmental status, iconic pop culture, and often dips into a variety of subcultures, too. Copenhagen’s fashion scene is nothing but colourful, conceptual and fresh.
Gestuz A/W 24 was no exception. The collection offered us a mix of iconic Glam Rock and modern essences through striking silhouettes both reminiscent of the 1970s period and current trends. A notable reoccurrence was denim, especially in the form of co-ords, a material no stranger to the 2024 winter trends, but paired with eclectic silver hardware buttons and maximalist chunky asymmetric earrings that gave the garments status and exuded confidence.
The inclusion of silver metallic elbow-length gloves contributes to a cyber vibe we've come to expect from the futuristic capital. The fashion scene has seen a revival of the party girl aesthetic and the “ Kate Moss effect” shifting away from minimalism - something which the styling definitely pokes at.
One unforgettable look was a Bombshell monochromatic red mesh dress, missing the top undergarments exposing part of the chest with a boxy cropped red leather jacket thrown over the shoulders. An effective nod to provocative femininity, serving the modern woman embracing their sexuality within an autonomous narrative, unapologetically.
Fur coats were also a quintessential statement to the collection, with oversized faux furs in muted tones such as grey and white as an ode to the nightlife culture indicative of the hair styling which saw one strand glued down the front of the face but with a high fashion element as expected on the runway.
The Gustav A/W24 showcase is an impressive reference to subtle 80s culture and the messy party girl life in a conceptualised modern function reintroducing the eclectic sparkle to the fashion scene and is the quintessential ready-to-wear collection for those into the party rocker aesthetic and techno-glam.
Rising womenswear designer Nicklas Skovgaard is also an undeniable frontrunner in Copenhagen’s fashion week. Nicklas noted that his pieces represent “the marriage of unexpected material and classical form.” The cultured nod to stylistic notions of decades gone points to the revolving nature of the fashion industry and how the recyclable nature can be adapted to modernity.
Skovgaard’s recent show, Collection 08 Show 2, provides the theatricality craved within the fashion industry, bringing life and characterisation to the eccentric garments. Most memorable is the two-tiered extreme bubble black PVC dress in union with a feathered bolero and ruffled shoes. The buoyancy of the garment blended with the stiff nature of the fabric creates a truly juxtaposed presentation between fluidity and structure; a fully realised garment of integrated textures playing on the effects of an unconventional silhouette.
Next, a cream bubble bottom minidress was ruched around both the waist and shoulders and adorned with large silver eyelet detailing. It felt like wonderfully mediaeval-inspired party wear- if you can imagine the two converging. The lookbook presented to us in this collection is nothing short of artistry. The whole presentation is something that should be noted by onlookers and designers alike, the fluidity of the models and individual personalities pulled the garments from simply showcasing to that of individual personality, it aids the curiosities of the garments. Showing the human touch encapsulated within the pieces and distinguished performance factor indicative of Copenhagen's fashion week.
More embedded however to Copenhagen's unique fashion scene would be its bold stance on streetwear and J.Lindeburg’s Clubhouse A/W 24 collection wholeheartedly incorporates an essence to this. The collection itself is based within the Y2K era with influence from sporting aesthetic items such as highly oversized puffer jackets with larger-than-life hoods and red netted maxi dresses that encapsulate the prime feature of Copehagens fashion scope, iconic and elevated streetwear.
Edited by Emily Duff