The influence of Black people in popularising street fashion cannot be disputed. Born out of a plethora of different African cultures and driven by exclusion from the predominantly rich white fashion scene, Black fashion trends have withstood the test of time – we can already see a fast resurgence of them in mainstream fashion.
I’m sure you have seen velour tracksuits, low-rise graphic jeans, and brands like Baby Phat becoming increasingly popular on social media, right in time for Black History Month. A few of the many different street trends have taken flight and even ended up on models walking the runway. It's important to rightly award Black Americans for their significant role in creating these trends, which is why a lot of what I’m mentioning will have roots and history in African American culture.
Accessories are a key component of street fashion. Previously used in the military for their weather-resistant design and then adopted by mod culture, bucket hats were popularised in the 80s over in the US hip hop scene. This led to their normalisation as a piece of everyday wear, whereas before they were unpopular and unfashionable. High fashion brands then adopted the bucket hat, making it their own, including Burberry with their iconic print and Prada with their logo.
Gold hoop earrings, as a street fashion trend, was initially a common accessory in Africa tracing back to the Bronze age. Josephine Baker, an iconic French jazz performer and civil rights activist, became one of the first to popularise large hoops in American media. Hoops became a symbol of Black power in the 60s. The 80s and 90s saw the hoop earring evolve. This included it morphing into bamboo hoops and ‘door knockers’, as well as braided gold, twists, heart shapes and even personalised earrings with people often getting their names engraved.
Hip hop was also responsible for arguably the most significant part of street fashion – sneakers. Before the 70s, sneakers were seen only for their practical use in sports, however, basketball and hip hop culture led by Black Americans changed this. Sneaker culture was pushed by Black children in low-income neighbourhoods. This is vital in understanding why the appropriation of sneaker culture by white Americans creates conflict and tension, as the originators are often overlooked when it comes to handing out credit.
Popular street trends weren’t only formed in America; Rastafarianism, brought by Jamaican immigrants to the UK, had a significant impact on Black British street fashion.
Rastafarians were responsible for the popularity of locs as a hairstyle, the combination of red, yellow, and green on net clothing as seen on Rihanna in her Work music video, headwraps, and afro-print clothing. These styles were linked to the religious beliefs and lifestyle choices of Rastafarians to bring them closer to their African heritage.
The beauty of Black fashion trends is meant to be enjoyed and celebrated. This can only occur when proper credit is given to Black people who innovate new ways to style. This cannot occur if large fashion brands steal from their work or when people appropriate aspects of Black fashion, reducing their cultural importance to a fleeting trend on social media. Moving past Black History Month, I encourage all readers to educate themselves on the contributions Black designers have made in fashion and to ensure they know the harm of cultural appropriation, whilst still being able to engage in street fashion.
The point is not to exclude people, but to make sure Black designers, influencers, and participants in fashion feel visible and respected.
Edited by Miette Dsouza