As a fashion capital already known for breaking boundaries and upholding a more 'flashy' reputation than other cities, Milan gave us all what we were expecting, and more, this fashion week.
From Diesel’s record-breaking arena show, to the twin-takeover on Gucci’s runway, here’s a rundown of the most memorable moments from Milan fashion week SS23.
Dolce & Gabbana and Kim Kardashian
What might have been taboo in the high-fashion world a few years ago, came to life for Dolce and Gabbana's SS23 Milan show last week.
The famous reality TV star, and now Dolce and Gabbana curator; Kim Kardashian worked
with Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana to create a ’90’s and Y2K inspired runway that caused discussion about a recent resurgence in the use of archival runway.
In a recent Vogue article Kim Kardashian describes Italian style as ‘extra sensual’, a theme that was clearly captured in the recent runway show.
Models walked the runway to a video of Kim Kardashian seductively eating pasta while wearing decadent evening gloves, truly iconic.
Overall, the collection gave everything it was supposed to give, with lace corsets, sparkling jumpsuits, pops of leopard print, and, of course, the classic D&G use of crosses which were paired with most looks.
Diesel's Arena Show
The fashion industry is well known for its extreme exclusivity, a stereotype that Glenn Martens tried to break with his recent SS23 show in Milan. Where out of the 5,000 people in attendance to his show, 3,000 were members of the public.
In a press release Martens said: “I wanted to open Diesel up to the public, for people who have never been to a fashion show.”
Martens broke tradition further by inviting editors with a token as extravagant as the runway show its-self. The glass blown butt-plug, that has now gone viral on TikTok, was 'generously' gifted as an invite to the show. The unique token suits the promiscuous themes that rippled through Milan’s runways last week.
The show saw models walk through the world’s biggest (ever) inflatable sculpture. Decked out in Diesel-denim, distressed biker jackets and the forever-iconic Diesel
belt skirt, models weaved through the gaps in-between giant inflatable arms and legs while showcasing the SS23 collection.
Maison Margeila X Salomon Collaboration
Taking place at a theatre on the outskirts of Milan, in front of a live orchestra, Margeila’s SS23 collection seemed to take inspiration from dancer-wear, combining leather, leotards and distressed fabrics. Models weaved their way between the audience in a low-lit show that was true to Margiela’s brand.
The show also revealed MM6 Maison Margiela’s second Salomon collaboration, consisting of two pieces so far. Thigh-high boots and running-vests in a black and white colour-way, which contrasted with the ballet pumps and feminine heels that also made their way down the runway.
Gucci's ode to 'twin magic'
‘Twinsburg’ by Fillipo Fior Alessandro Michele saw 68 identical twins take to the runway in Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection.
The show began with models walking, alone, down the runway to an almost eery recording about the prospect of the parallel existence of two entities, insinuating these identities are identical but opposite simultaneously.
Named after the Ohio town ‘Twinsburg’, where the largest gathering of twins takes place every year; Michelle's collection was filled with garments like slim, longline blazers and floral skirts, paired with extravagant accessories like stockings and over the nose hardware.
The second half of the show saw models meeting their twin at the top of the runway, perfectly mirroring one another as they took the catwalk for the second time in what was, truly, a spectacle for the audience.
Paris Hilton for Versace
Apparently gothic is the new spring trend, as Versace’s recent show saw models take to a church candle-lit runway in Milan last week.
Presenting dichotomising ideas of the classic bride, punk-ish styling, and neon colours,
Donatella, in her show notes, said: “A woman who is confident, smart and a little bit of a diva. She wears leather, studs and frayed denim and she has enough attitude to mix them with chiffon, jersey and a tiara.”
The American heiress was seen taking over the runway in a barbie-like chainmail dress, neon vale, and stiletto heels, alongside major names like Bella and Gigi Hadid, Emily Ratajkowski and Vittoria Ceretti.
Overall, 90’s and 00’s influences were a common motif throughout Milan fashion week. Designers drew inspiration from archival pieces, with the aim of giving old designs new life on the runway this season.
Edited by Madelynne Flack